A description of my marathon travels through Africa's largest country- encompassing Mediterranean metropolises, legendary Roman cities, the Sahara Desert and much more.
Everyone I spoke to expressed enormous surprise when I mentioned that I was researching a potential trip to Algeria. I wanted to club it with Morocco, a much better known destination. Algeria, however, seemed to them a crazy thought that only I could concoct. Their views? That it would be challenging to plan and "dangerous" to visit.
Given the country’s history of instability, I did not blame them. However, having returned in one piece, I can assure everyone that the trip provided a very secure and positive environment to significantly enrich myself through the diverse historical and cultural experiences on offer.
I pride myself with great knowledge of geography, but never realized that Algeria, at almost 2.4 million square kilometres, is the largest country on the African continent, and the tenth largest in the world. I had somehow always thought that the Democratic Republic of Congo had that distinction. Either way, it was clear that independent travel here would be very difficult—how would I enjoy the Roman ruins along the Mediterranean coast one afternoon, and explore a date plantation in the Sahara the very next morning?! I was determined to see as much of this vast, enigmatic country as I could in the nine days I had been able to set aside for it. This would involve five domestic flights on Air Algerie—the national airline, surprisingly efficient and comfortable—and substantial road travel. End November-early December is an optimal time to visit, as the days are very pleasant and generally clear. At this time, I could avoid the ferocious summer temperatures in the Saharan part of the country.
The trip simply would not have been possible without the guidance of my old family friend, the current Indian Ambassador to Algeria, Satbir Singh. He was my generous host for all the days I spent in the capital Algiers, and also put me in touch with a local travel company. They tailor-made an exclusive itinerary for me, covering all the important sights I desired to see, for around a third of the exorbitant sums of money that the agents I had found online were demanding.
I landed in Algiers from Casablanca late in the afternoon, to a warm welcome from my hosts at their beautiful villa in the diplomatic quarter of Algiers. We enjoyed a hearty Indian dinner (as always, unsure what vegetarian fare I would find on the next leg of the journey), and I turned in early for a 6 am flight the next morning to Annaba.
On arrival in Annaba—or Hippo Regius, as it was once known—I was received by my entourage of three young Algerians: a driver, an archaeologist cum guide, and an interpreter, who would stay with me for four days. I was not quite expecting such a large welcome party! Annaba is a little jewel on Algeria's Northeastern Mediterranean coast. An important economic and industrial centre, this harbour town has played a major role since ancient times. It has served the Phoenicians, Numidian Berbers, Romans, and Vandals. It was also home to a large French settlement during the colonial era, which explains the French-inspired buildings that litter the central districts of the city. It is most famous perhaps for its association with early Christianity, and for being home to Saint Augustine in the 5th Century.
Having studied his legendary work 'City of God' during my political theory classes at LSE, I had never imagined I would one day have the chance to walk through the ruins of the very 'basilica of peace' where Augustine of Hippo had preached his teachings. The glorious ruins of Hippo Regius are nestled at the base of a hill, atop which the modern Saint Augustine Basilica towers over the city. The basilica is home to a high profile relic—part of Augustine's right arm, inserted into a life-size marble statue of the saint. Having spent half a day in Annaba, I left the colonial boulevards and azure waters behind, as I began the road journey to Constantine, my base for three nights.
Constantine (ancient Cirta) is one of the most dramatically situated cities you could possibly visit. Located inland, it is built on and around a handful of hills and valleys connected by numerous picturesque suspension bridges, each a phenomenal feat of engineering. It has stood in this spot practically since the beginning of time, having borne witness to tremendous Phoenician, Numidian Berber, Roman, Arab, Ottoman and French civilisations. Cirta dates back to around 203 BC, and was renamed Constantine after the fabled Roman Emperor in 313 AD.
There are some incredible sights here–the Museum of Ancient Cirta with its Roman mosaics and ceramics (including huge clay jars used to store gallons of wine), the gargantuan Emir Abdelkader Mosque, the stunningly colourful palace of the Ottoman Governor Ahmed Bey with its enormous wall-to-wall murals depicting the Bey's pilgrimages to Mecca and the like, the buzzing medina, and the charming French colonial buildings. I had a traditional Algerian lunch at a lovely restaurant overlooking one of the suspension bridges. This was followed by an excursion deep into the ravine underneath the many suspension bridges, along a rickety colonial-era walkway. My guide swore that I must be the first Indian tourist to venture into this unknown part of the city to closely observe the many layers of history! There is one particular point where you see three layers of bridges constructed directly on top of one another—one each from Roman, Ottoman and French periods. The only person here other than my entourage was a curious local who was washing clothes at the base of a waterfall. The water tumbling off the edge in the direct gaze of the afternoon sun created a small rainbow that framed things magnificently.
After a tiring day, I thankfully found a shisha joint (albeit slightly shady) where locals were enjoying a football match. The Algerians are notorious for their love of football, and there is substantial turmoil in some Parisian neighborhoods when Algeria loses a football match! This was followed by a pizza (alas, my vegetarianism) and some delightful Algerian red wine—Grenache, in this case. Considering Algeria is an Arab country with a majority Muslim population, it continues to be a major wine producer. I guess that is unavoidable given the Roman and French influences on their culture. Giving up the expertise would be sacrilege, not to mention denying the world something amazing.
The Algerian government, I believe, is fairly paranoid about the safety of foreigners on its soil. While there haven't been many untoward incidents involving foreign tourists in the last several years (at least to my knowledge), all tour companies have to report their wards to the local police authorities on arrival in a particular district. I had already given my itinerary to the Foreign Ministry—as regulation requires this—and my travel company had shared this with local authorities in the various districts I was visiting.
Sure enough, before I spent my first night outside Algiers, in Constantine, local police representatives came to the hotel to inspect my passport. The two days in Annaba and Constantine had been wonderful, but the next morning, the police prevented me from visiting the Roman ruins at Tiddis for reasons still unknown! I was told they could not "guarantee" my safety if I went there during that particular week, so I had to give it a miss. A plain-clothes policeman followed us on our walks around Constantine, and our car was then escorted by a police vehicle wherever we went by road! As we crossed over from one town to another, over large swathes of Eastern Algeria, the police cars tailing us were replaced by those on duty at the next post. This continued repeatedly for several days. The police were a constant presence but not intrusive, and certainly reassuring just in case there was any trouble—which there most certainly wasn't. I do wonder how the Algerian government can afford this for every single tourist visiting certain areas: Is it oil money?!
I managed to see the Tomb of Medracen from the 4th Century, an incredible funerary monument for an important Berber Numidian King, near Batna. And when the Roman city of Timgad stretched out before me, almost as far as my eyes could see, I knew the entire trip had been worth it! One of the best preserved Roman sites on the planet, Timgad, founded by Emperor Trajan in AD 100 as a bastion against the Berbers, owes its magnificent present shape to the sands of the Sahara. It is one of Algeria’s many UNESCO World Heritage Sites, complete with perpendicular intersecting streets called the ‘Decumanus Maximus’ and ‘Cardo Maximus’, a Forum, a Corinthian Colonnade, a library, a stupendous triumphal Arch of Trajan, a 3500 seater theatre, thermal baths, a Temple of Jupiter (it has the same dimensions as the Pantheon in Rome!) and a basilica (from when Romans had adopted Christianity). This is perhaps the best surviving example anywhere of the grid plan in Roman town planning, and I spent many hours exploring what is undoubtedly one of the most exceptional places I will visit in my life. We then proceeded to Lambaesis, which, although not as impressive as Timgad, is an important military settlement from the era of Roman Emperor Hadrian, circa AD 123.
The extensive road journeys were made entertaining by my entourage, all of whom were extremely friendly India lovers. They knew way more Bollywood gossip than I have ever kept track of, including who was marrying or breaking up with whom, and they played the latest Hindi songs I had never heard, both on the local radio stations as well as from their personal playlists. Every Algerian can sing (or atleast hum) "Jaane Tu Ya Jaane Na" from the 1973 Shashi Kapoor starrer 'Aa Gale Lag Ja' that attained cult status there, thus starting the never ending love affair the locals have with popular Hindi cinema and all its melodrama.
The next day—my fourth since the beginning of the tour—was spent exploring the unmissable Roman hillside site of Djemila, formerly known as Cuicul. This area uniquely adapts Roman town planning to a mountain environment at 900 metres above sea level. Buildings here include a gigantic theatre, forum, basilica, majestic victory arch, and townhouses. I saw a Roman toilet, drainage system, part of a gigantic statue of Jupiter and even the remnants of windows in some of the houses. The museum at the site is overflowing with intricate mosaics that once covered the floors of the buildings, and have been painstakingly moved indoors, piece by piece, for preservation from the harsh elements. We then began the four hour drive to Algiers, police escort in tow, from where I was scheduled to take an evening flight to Ghardaia, isolated in Algeria's Sahara desert.
It is impossible to encapsulate all that Ghardaia has to offer in this brief piece, as there is an enormous amount to be said about this special place. You could very well have magically jumped into a copy of Arabian Nights. I landed here at night and was picked up by my local guide. We promptly reported to the police station for mere seconds, as thankfully, no police escort was deemed to be required here! We then drove to my guest house 'Gite Tarist', a delightful home stay of sorts, where the owner had cooked a delicious vegetarian soup and tagine for me. Following some very interesting dinner conversation, in the course of which I learnt they use Indian products like Mahindra SUVs and Dabur toothpaste out in the desert, I called it a night. Sunrise over the rugged landscape was quite memorable, with the moon still distinctly visible at the opposite end of the horizon. The guest house itself was bright and cheerful, with all the walls and floors covered in vibrant local carpets.
The five ancient towns in the exotic M'zab Valley have stood here, surrounded by the vast desert, for a thousand years. Each is a fortified village on its own rocky hill. Little has changed, however, with the exception of a small airport. The date plantations now have modern irrigation facilities, and many houses have electricity and running water. Cars cannot enter the five towns as there are no roads, however—just narrow winding stone paths and alleys.
Know that this is a fiercely conservative society that imposes strict rules on tourists. You are not allowed to enter the town centre at certain hours of the morning and afternoon because the women are expected to be socialising and relaxing outdoors at those times. You cannot venture into the old towns without a local guide as they are labyrinths where you could get lost for hours on end, and nobody speaks English. In fact, many don’t even speak French. Goods are transported by donkey, and the women remain fully covered in white from head to toe. They wear a traditional white 'Haik', which is a wrap-like niqab. Married women are only allowed to expose one eye, which they may alternate, and single women may have a small part of their face visible. You are not allowed to look at them, make eye contact, or take any photos. In fact, you are not allowed to take photos of any locals at all, and they are pretty strict about this. You may not enter the town centre unless you are well covered, so no shorts or skirts. You also may not smoke, and must leave before sunset.
Here, I spent some time shopping for the famous carpets woven by local women and ended up carrying a rather large, brilliantly colourful one back home. My guide casually went about his vegetable and meat shopping, haggling with traders. I visited an ancient Quranic school and held, in my own hands, tablets with handwritten Quranic verses that I was told could be hundreds of years old. It is said the simple unadorned mosques, towers, and general architectural style of the M'zab region have influenced the famous architect Le Corbusier. I visited a local date plantation, and then proceeded to the airport for my flight back to Algiers, having barely scratched the surface of this incredible place.
On my sixth day in Algeria, I flew from Algiers to Oran, in the western part of the country. After getting stuck in a chaotic traffic jam leaving the airport parking lot, which was caused by pilgrims returning from Umrah, I explored this enchanting Mediterranean city with a great buzz: Its exquisite colonial buildings in varying states of decay and its tranquil blue waterfront are well worth a visit.
Oran was immortalised by Albert Camus in his famous 1940s novel 'The Plague'. The city has Moorish, Spanish, French and Ottoman influences. It was an important hub for European settlers and Algerian Jews, who all sadly had to flee to France during the violent Algerian War of Independence from 1954 to 1962. The most interesting place here is the originally Spanish, then French, Fort of Santa Cruz on a steep hill. Its little chapel watches over the city skyline like a guardian angel, with sweeping views of the bay. Here, I was accosted by a bunch of Algerian college girls, who my guide explained loved India, and wanted a picture with me! Quite taken aback, I had no choice but to oblige.
Underneath a purple-gold sunset, we drove to Tlemcen, where I spent the night. Tlemcen is packed with the history and architecture of the 11th century Almoravid dysnaty, a Berber Muslim clan that once ruled these parts. I started the next day by exploring the incredible caves of Beni Add at Ain Fezza. They are so cavernous and deep that entire bands of troops from the National Liberation Army, fighting the French colonizers, took refuge there regularly over the years of the resistance. There is even a passage through the caves that is said to run all the way to Morocco. Such was the French fear of Algerian nationalists using the passage to their advantage during the war: They used dynamite to block it!
Since I had a very hectic schedule, my Algerian guide requested the local authorities to allow me to visit the caves at 8am, well before they open to the public at 11am. They obliged on the condition that the visiting Indian tourist meet the town President (Mayor) for a few minutes! He loved India and had never met an Indian tourist before. I was honoured with another unexpected photo opportunity, for which I was seriously underdressed! The suited official and I posed in his office at the City Hall, with the Algerian flag, as a portrait of then President Bouteflika looked over us in approval! Later in the day, I toured several landmarks from the Almoravid period, including the shrine of the influential Andalusian mystic and sufi saint Sidi Boumediene. I also visited the El-Ourit waterfall and famous 19th century suspension railway bridge designed by none other than Gustave Eiffel, of Eiffel tower fame. Then, it was time to drive back to Oran for my final domestic flight, back to Algiers.
A day remained to explore Algiers, packed with street upon street of graceful 19th century colonial buildings, some more imposing than those found in louder and flashier European cities. Sadly, however, many are gradually deteriorating, and I am told there is a debate as to whether they should be restored. With an ideal setting on the Mediterranean, this great metropolis has a European charm and feel but a beating African heart—it’s simply bursting with energy.
From the derelict Kasbah to the stunning views of the water from the edge of the Medina, the peaceful botanical gardens, grand French boulevards now juxtaposed against large Arabic hoardings—not to mention the interesting third world sight of clothes drying in the balconies and window sills of crumbling but elegant European mansions— this city has tremendous character. The squares and cafes, like the iconic 'Milk Bar' I visited, have witnessed the turbulence of the violent independence struggle. This landmark cafe, a great stop for a light bite in downtown Algiers, has been around for decades. It was once frequented by the French and was the site of a major bombing in 1956, early on in the Algerian war of independence.
Thanks to a friendly local colleague of my host, the Indian Ambassador, I visited the impressive cathedral of Notre Dame d'Afrique, which offers more sweeping views of the city. I also saw the famous martyr's memorial. I took some lovely walks along the colonial palm-fringed streets and waterfront, learning about the imposing central post office, palais des rais and Ketchaoua Mosque. Algiers is truly underrated, with a unique kind of Mediterranean charm very different from what you’ll find on the European side of the same sea.
I visited one final Roman site near Algiers:Tipaza, an exceptional place distinguished by its coastal setting and transparent turquoise waters. This was once a Roman military colony, reduced to ruin by a series of invaders, but is now not far from a modern settlement that is somewhat a suburb of Algiers.
We also stopped at the ‘Royal Mausoleum of Mauretania'. It was an absolute treat to visit yet another incredible Numidian funerary monument, akin to the Pyramids of Egypt. The mausoleum dates from the 3rd Century BC, and is alleged to be the tomb of very important Berber sovereigns of the ancient Numidian Kingdom of Mauretania. Interestingly, it is also known as the ‘Tomb of the Christian’ because of a large, cross-like structure above its entrance, even though it’s clear that the tomb predates Christianity by several centuries. Large chunks are missing from the structure, as the French colonial masters used it for artillery target practice in the late 19th/early 20th century! No remains have been found here, perhaps because of tomb-raiding in the past. Excavations continue across Algeria, but these Numidian monuments are still a great archaeological mystery.
My last night in Algiers was spent dining at an Indian restaurant with my gracious hosts, recounting all the tales of my travels across Algeria over the last eight days and preparing for my departure back to New Delhi the next morning. I am fortunate to have visited a country as unique as Algeria: It will always remain etched in my memory as a unique land that sits at the crossroads of Europe, Africa and the Arab world, offering a multitude of history and culture to those who seek it.