Selected memories of my extensive travels through the gorgeous Baltic Republic, Latvia.
Latvia has been overrun by one mighty power or another through the centuries. It is therefore, obviously bursting at the seams with many layers of history. Following hundreds of years of struggle between the Swedish, Polish-Lithuanian and Russian Empires for dominion over the Baltic state, Latvia briefly became independent in 1918, only to be occupied by Nazi Germany during the Second World War, and then again by the Soviet Union in 1944. This began a tumultuous period that would last almost fifty years. The events of 1989—when the 'Baltic Way', a human chain of two million people, was formed across 675 kilometres, spanning the three Baltic republics of Estonia, Latvia and Lithuania as a sign of protest—turned the tables, triggering developments that would result in independence in 1991. Latvia joined the European Union in 2004, and has never looked back. While Latvia's spot on the international stage is small, it is bigger in size than Switzerland, Belgium and the Netherlands, which are amongst Europe's most popular travel destinations.
I have had the privilege of seeing many important sights in the country over the last few years, during my mother's accreditation as India's non-resident Ambassador to the nation. We have had the chance to get to know the stones and streets closely. We’ve met fascinating locals, and been a part of the highest ever level of political visits from India to the country which has made our experience all the more memorable… and all of this at a time when Latvia has truly reinvented itself and arrived on the global scene.
Riga, Latvia's radiant capital, is an often overlooked gem in Eastern Europe. It deserves at least a full summer weekend's attention—not merely a couple of hours' pit stop on a touristy Baltic cruise. It lies on the banks of the Daugava River, not far from the Baltic coast. The timeless city is steeped in 800 years of history, with more charm packed into its compact centre than in some of Europe's flashier modern metropolises. It is home to not only a third of Latvia’s population, but a tenth of the three Baltic Republics’ entire population, making it the largest and busiest city in the region. Riga was founded around 1201, and as a major economic trading centre was a member of the historic Hanseatic League- the historic commercial and defensive confederation of market towns uniting merchant guilds across Northern Europe.
The Old Town is recognised as a UNESCO World Heritage site. This area is littered with architectural masterpieces, and is also the chief entertainment quarter, with countless bars and restaurants to choose from. It comes alive in the summer, when it is brimming with street musicians and artists of all kinds. We were once pleasantly surprised, when while visiting with an Indian delegation, musicians started playing the Indian National Anthem, 'Jana Gana Mana', and we suddenly had to spring to attention! Clearly, the love for Bollywood, yoga and Indian food has caught up with Latvians in a big way.
Getting lost along the cobblestone streets and squares is a must. For those interested in history, taking a guided tour in a battery operated cart is the best way to learn about the centuries old houses, merchant guilds, and churches. The view from the top of St Peter's Church is breathtaking. Other important sights around the old town include the Dome Cathedral, the 'Three Brothers', which are the very oldest houses in town, and the main square with its Town Hall, historic House of Blackheads, and what is said to be the site of the first ever decorated public Christmas tree way back in 1510. Riga's enormous Central Market is not far from here: It is Europe's largest bazaar (at 72,300 square metres!) housed in five reused German zeppelin airship hangars, and well worth a visit to get a sense of how locals go about their daily business.
It is impossible to miss the Freedom Monument, standing tall at the crossroads of the Old Town and newer part of the city, celebrating the liberty Latvians have paid a massive price for. Urban planners in the Russian Empire must be commended for laying out the roads and parks the way they have done: One is never too far in the city centre from a large park, with appealing ponds, fountains, and benches. Summers are magical here, when the locals come out, and the parks become an ideal setting to relax and watch the world go by. The Museum of Occupation details the turmoil of the Soviet era, while the National Museum of Art provides a refreshing window into the thriving art scene in the Baltic republics.
The National Library building, opened in 2014, is very special. Colloquially called the 'Castle of Light', the glass mountain boasts a collection of five million titles and dominates the Riga skyline. Most notable here is the incredible 'People's Bookshelf', which is a wall of books towering five storeys high in the main atrium. The idea is for every individual to donate a favourite or special book for this shelf, and it has proven to be very popular. The Latvian Academy of Sciences, widely known as 'Stalin's Birthday Cake', is a landmark symbol of Soviet occupation. It is in the same Classical Socialist style seen in Moscow, Warsaw and several other cities on the Eastern side of the 'Iron Curtain'.
The Art Nouveau District is a must see. Riga witnessed a financial boom during the late 19th century-early 20th century, which was accompanied by unprecedented construction activity. Elaborate art nouveau apartment blocks—with their flamboyant mythological figures, angels, gargoyles, and floral motifs—sprung up all over the city. There are over 800 such buildings in Riga. A great concentration of the best-preserved, prolific examples is found along a handful of streets that now comprise the Art Nouveau district. You can have a guided walking tour to see the facades, as well some exquisite interiors, and visit the Art Nouveau Museum, where the staff give tours in period costumes. Many of the buildings are designed by one proponent of this school of design, architect Mikhail Eisenstein. He is the father of the famous Soviet film director Sergei Eisenstein, who would go on to make the legendary epic Battleship Potemkin in 1925.
World class accommodation options for every budget are available in Riga. I have stayed in some of the finest hotels, including the Grand Palace and Grand Hotel Kempinski, both in the Old Town, and the Grand Poet Hotel in the heart of the city. Our usual choice however, was the Radisson Blu Latvija. It is impossible to match the panoramic view from the rooms on its higher floors. The hotel overlooks the golden domes of Riga's grand Nativity Cathedral (the largest Orthodox Church here and well worth popping into to admire the bright frescoes), the lush foliage of its parks, and some of the main wide boulevards.
The Radisson Lavija is also home to the Skyline Bar, with sweeping views of the city from the hotel's highest floor. It is accessed through a glass walled elevator, and is an important social hub. Riga has a vibrant nightlife, particularly during the summer: Every night feels like a weekend, as the city truly doesn't sleep. Locals come spilling out onto the narrow cobbled streets in the old town, and every pavement near a pub or bar is thronging with the beautiful people of Riga.
For Shisha lovers like me, there are endless options all over. You can live it up in the wild clubs or have a sophisticated evening hopping from one trendy spot to another. One of my challenges when I travel is finding vegetarian food, but luckily, there are plenty of places in Riga that do not disappoint. These include Bibilioteka No. 1, one of the finest Latvian restaurants in Riga's prettiest park, the delightful Italian Casa Nostra in the art nouveau district, and Indian Raja in the heart of the old town, which is frequented by everyone from ministers to celebrities. No matter where you decide to dine or party, trying locally brewed beer and the infamous Riga Balsam herbal liqueur with a 45 percent alcohol content is a must.
The resort town Jurmala, 25 kilometres from Riga, is a wonderful excursion out of the city. Its reputation as a spa town grew in the early 19th century, when Russian military officers fatigued from the Napoleonic wars sought holiday spots along the warmer southern shores of the Baltic. Its 33 kilometre long stretch of white sandy beach is a perfect summer destination, whether you want to swim in the Baltic Sea, lay back and relax in the sun, or stroll along the town's main promenade with its colourful old wooden buildings. This later became a favourite holiday resort for powerful communist officials including Brezhnev and Khrushchev during Soviet times. It remains a hangout for the glamorous set in Riga today, but is relatively unknown to tourists outside the region. This is bound to change in the future as more Western European tourists start flocking here seeking a slightly more affordable slice of sand and sun, for while Latvia adopted the Euro in 2014, it remains cheaper than most seaside destinations in the Eurozone. The romantic old wooden cottages and grand mansions are a nostalgic reminder of Jurmala's past glory. It was at the wonderful concert hall by the beach here that I got to witness the spectacle of Zubin Mehta conducting the Israeli Philharmonic Orchestra just last summer- an unparalleled treat for the senses.
About an hour’s drive from Riga, the magnificent Baroque Rundale Palace was completed in 1768 for the Dukes of Courland, in what was then known as Livonia. It was designed by the fabled Italian architect Bartolomeo Rastrelli, who became legend for his work on the Hermitage Winter Palace as well as the Pushkin and Peterhof palaces around St. Petersburg. It has lavish stucco decorations and interiors befitting its status. When Livonia and the Duchy of Courland were absorbed by the Russian Empire, famous monarch Catherine the Great presented it to her lover’s brother. It then passed through the hands of various Russian nobles until it fell into decline during the First World War. It was used variously as a school, a hospital and a grain storehouse for the next six decades, before the Latvian Soviet finally decided, mercifully, to restore it to its final glory. The renovation was ultimately completed by 2015, with the palace and gardens now a delightful tourist destination.
Fifty kilometres from Riga, Sigulda National Park with its picturesque Gauja River Valley, castle ruins, and handful of newer monuments, is another quick tourist getaway. This is an ideal setting for walks amidst ruins and the unique ecosystem the virgin forest landscape provides. Adventure sports enthusiasts will find a great deal to do here, as will nature lovers who appreciate the great outdoors. The stunning views over the river valley are well worth the short drive. The Gutmanis Cave, the largest in the Baltics, is located here between the two castles Sigulda and Turaida.
Ancient Kuldiga, a little further away from Riga, at about 150 kilometres is very pretty, in case one has an extra day at their disposal. Important waterways emerging from various rivers form a crossroads here, explaining perhaps why the spot was chosen by the merchant settlers. The old city dates back to the 1200s and is situated picturesquely along River Alekšupīte. Since the river flows directly along building walls in some parts of the old town, Kuldiga is affectionately referred to as the Venice of Latvia. The attractive historic centre with its colourful houses, narrow pedestrian streets and typical town square is charming to walk around. The nearby Venta rapid is the widest waterfall in Europe at around 240 metres and worth a stopover, as is the 19th century old brick bridge across the River Venta, the longest of its kind in Europe, built to allow two carriages to pass each other. The bizarre ‘race of the naked’ across this bridge is apparently an annual tradition on midsummer nights!
All this put together makes Latvia a very pleasing whole, and an absolute must on every traveller's European itinerary.